THE Zambian textile and clothing industry has seen better days and is now facing stiff competition from imported cheap garments and also from cheap second-hand clothing commonly known as ‘salaula’.
The ordinary Zambian would rather go for cheap second hand clothes than new clothes from an established shop if they wanted to top up their wardrobe.
Traders of second-hand clothes are found at all the major markets around the country and on corridors along the streets of major towns.
Established textile companies like Kabwe’s Mulungushi Textiles and Kafue Textiles could barely operate due to the influx of these imported garments.
Hence these companies were closed. However, plans and efforts are underway to have them opened again.
However, without an established textiles sector, the company has seen the influx of inferior textile materials, with some believed to be manufactured at back yards.
The quality of these materials is questionable as they are believed to be inferior and have the potential to affect the environment.
According to Fiber2fashion, the textile processing industry is characterised not only by the large volume of water required for various unit operations but also by the variety of chemicals used for various processes.
There is a long sequence of wet processing stages requiring inputs of water, chemical and energy and generating wastes at each stage.
The other feature of this industry, which is a backbone of fashion garment, is large variation in demand of type, pattern and colour combination of fabric resulting into significant fluctuation in waste generation volume and load.
Textile processing generates many waste streams, including liquid, gaseous and solid wastes, some of which may be hazardous.
The nature of the waste generated depends on the type of textile facility, the processes and technologies being operated, and the types of fibres and chemicals used.
The textile manufacturing process is characterised by the high consumption of resources like water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process sequence that generates a significant amount of waste.
The common practices of low process efficiency result in substantial wastage of resources and a severe damage to the environment.
The main environmental problems associated with textile industry are typically those linked with water body pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluents. Other environmental issues of equal importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)’s and excessive noise or odour as well as workspace safety.
Most processes performed in textile mills produce atmospheric emissions.
Gaseous emissions have been identified as the second greatest pollution problem (after effluent quality) for the textile industry.
Speculation concerning the amounts and types of air pollutants emitted from textile operations has been widespread but, generally, air emission data for textile manufacturing operations are not readily available.
Air pollution is the most difficult type of pollution to sample, test, and quantify in an audit.
It is important to know the entire life cycle of textiles to examine the environmental influences of textiles.
The life cycle of textiles involves growing and processing the fibre, manufacturing the yarn, manufacturing the fabric, dyeing and finishing, cutting and making the final product, maintaining the product during use and disposal or recycling.
Environmental impacts have their presence at every phase of the life cycle of textiles.
The textile industry discharges waste in plenty and utilises large volume of energy and water.
Manufacturing, colouring and finishing of one kilogram of textiles can consumer approximately 200 litres of water.
During the several phases of manufacturing, fibres and uses, the amount of environmental impact fluctuates.
While cotton has a large environmental impact during its making, synthetic or manufactured textiles use huge quantity of energy during production.
Since clothes required to be laundered, the environmental impact related to clothing is notable during the ‘use’ period, while, for furniture and interior textiles, the greatest impact is likely to occur during the ‘production’ period.
Let us now consider in brief the environmental impact of textiles. We will talk about pollution generated during the production of natural fibres and synthetic fibres.
Fibre Growth relocates land for crops, removes nutrients from soil, pollutes soil and water by using chemicals like pesticides, biocides and herbicides, damages crop strain and consumes energy and water, which are limited in amount.
Harvesting procedure uses chemical like defoliants, which are carried by air. They are dangerous to human health while breathing. It also considerably uses chemical defoliants and fuel-powered equipment.
Production Cleaning applies harmful and strong chemicals. Water is contaminated by detergents, soaps and bleaches. Other dangers are waste to landfill, by-product lanolin from wool polishing, chemicals and fuel releases, and noise and dust are generated.
Spinning creates dust and noise; moreover, if loose fibres are breathed in, it can badly affect our respiratory system. What is more, it oozes out poisonous smokes and also releases solid waste like cones and pallets.
Fabric Production consumes unlimited resources; raises dust and noise, discharges smokes from chemicals and uses energy and water, which are limited reserve.
Finishes gives birth to toxic by-products and gases from chemicals, metals, dyes and resins. VOCs are emanated from fabric and garment. Others are treatment dangers and storage of waste, i.e. used dye. It uses energy and water, which are limited sources.
The procedure of Garment Production generates waste from off-cuts, dust; workers are prone to health perils by treating fabric and other processed products.
Chemical residues from the application of finishes, dry cleaning uses chemicals, solid waste like packaging, inks, plastics and hangers are also dangerous.
Process of distribution pollutes the air with fuel, which is not an infinite supply for distribution.
When consumer uses and discards the product, they are bound to generate solid waste like packaging; due to chameleonic fashion codes, surplus use produces solid waste.
Moreover, waste carbonisation and dumps emit poisonous materials. Caring products also add to water pollution by washing, ironing and dry cleaning garments; this process consumes more energy and chemicals.
Fibre eats limited valuable sources like petroleum, coal and oil. The reason of more pollution is our inability to removing toxic by-products, which require proper treatment and landfill.
The fibres, which need to be stored safely for a long time, generate toxic chemicals that pollute air, water and land and thereby deteriorating our health when we breathe the nasty smell of pollutants.
Until next week, God bless!
For comments: stanslous.ngosa@times.co.zm ngosastan@gmail.com
www.stanslousngosa.blogspot.com
+260977694310, +260955694310